Berlin is printed across the top of an oversized organic cotton crewneck sweatshirt above a battered punk poster with a big-headed guitarist and vertical Spanish text that translates to "We're all in this together, so let's have a party." SO36 in Kreuzberg has hosted punk since 1978, so the ripped-flyer energy is earned. It's for Berlin locals and music obsessives who skip the tourist shops. A Berlin souvenir that still smells like a basement venue.